so far ive gotten some stuff done and i feel better about maybe succeeding in my life. now i might be able to remake the gardenia perfume tonight. i originally thought #1 had no magnolia leaf but it turns out that #2 was just number 1 with different ratios. I originally made the perfume with really wonky ratios that made the perfume have this dirty aspect to it. As if it was a bouquet by the roadside. With the second version all I did was round off the numbers and boost some of the flowers like extra rose de mai, more ylang and more gardenia, and a little bit more jasmine. It worked very well, and my dilution ratio was lower so it was stronger. I also used less magnolan. I noticed the other day when I spilled the #2 and wore it, that two days later I could still smell the magnolan on my sweater when I rewore it. Not only does it last all day, it might last a lifetime, hence sensitivity. I was thinking of making two versions of the perfumes that are mostly botanical ingredients. For example this one has musk ketone and magnolan, which are not naturally derived so the natural version I conceive will have no synthetically derived ingredients, but that would not include naturally sourced isolates like geraniol or farnesol. I'm not sure that will sit well with the purists though, so I also conceive I will have (finally) actual bona fide aromatherapy blends. In the future when I'm all better and on my own for a while with no external aggressors, I am positive I will be enjoying my product making once again, and I can't wait to share my joy with you.

---
ok so i resmelled the gardenia perfume #3 and its too much myraldyl acetate. like way too much. it took forever to mix in and i used it too fast., i think: i have this idea but its just asking someone who knows how this works: for the myraldyl of givaudan.

its too sweet and shimmery and top its almost like a holy ghost but its too much and it turned into a veil for the all the essential oils
maybe i can try it at like 10% or less, in trace, and prepepared, i used .01 part in the formula so its too high.

for the homey may rose or what did i call it violet may
honey may
the first one had the #17 then the second one i made #17.2 then the 3rd one i effd up and used a peppermint bottle top cos lame and i changed the top but not before i noticed a slight change in the smell of the rose and i thought i was imagining things from the basenotes forum. it was the largest amount i made of the violet may trials, 30 ml perfume at 25% concentration, i used the last of my sandalwood so id go get more, its got more chamomille, it has no sandalore and ebanol (the sandalwood eo replaced these) i didnt use the violet accord from perfumers apprentice, used a higher amount of the #17.2 (now just #17) and its a lot of fun and  playing a game with your memory and making  mixtures you can name and use in another thing in the future, its very cool and fun. also science and science kit at home. cos confinement and corona virus.

Rare Canadian (Quebecois) Essential Oils Goldenrod, Fern, Firs......

last night i found another distiller from quebec this one is golden! as in GOLDENROD ESSENTIAL OIL AND FERN ESSENTIAL OIL can you imagine how many damn fronds you would need to collect to make fern essential oil?? I am a little annoyed that I found them because now I *NEED* to smell these things. Damn.

Now don't say I never helped you.

https://aliksir.com/

Please buy responsibly and ethically!
Do not resell these on etsy for $36 per .5ml like that lame violet glass person in the states.  She does NO FARMING whatsoever and simply does not deserve that money.she cant even edit her copy its all wrong spelling and bad grammar.  for all i know she bought it off those girls in cali. actually they have some pretty rare stuff.... but after i get the fern and decide which goldenrod to get i wont buy every zest either because instead i'll be working on remaking the gardenia perfume (magnolia) and the violet may rose (honey may) or maybe honey rose. how can i describe this delicious floral honey nectar of the goddesses we believe exist? made the formula twice, both were 100% love. some of the ingredients are roman chamomille (this is the only therapeutic oil in the blend) honeysuckle absolute, rose de mai, reseda absolute, mimosa absolute (accacia dealbata aka wattle) sandalwood (santal album) this is the commercial grade oil, which i find very good!! (no idea on the expensive grades actually) labdanum absolute... ok i could go on but these are the heavy hitters... this isnt a botanical perfume as it has some aromatic chemicals and actually i think i need to change the magnolan but with what???? i think im allergic to it is why. i need to finalize the dosage of magnolan since i am very skinsensitive. i love the stuff though and every perfume i made last year had the damn stuff in it.... all day long baby!

bergamot tip !

im making a bergamot recreation and its already super realistic with 6 ingredients! just found 5 more to add in small amounts. im only using essential oils and its a lot of fun, like doing a puzzle or mind game, if you like those.... been making dilutions all day and im so glad i invested in 100 tiny bottles! .30 cents a piece is a small price to pay for the convenience of use! so many dilutions!
ive made a few formulas for other perfume ideas and some of the accords i made are turning out really well. if i didnt get that thanaka lime also known as persian lime (its those little black ones for food) which is citrus x latifolia (key lime and lemon) i wouldnt have been able to make this wonderful bergamot recreation!
some of the ingredients im using are
bitter orange (citrus x aurantium) respiratory, lemon (citrus limon), blood orange (citrus x sinensis), ...... woops ! dont want to give it all away! specially now that im getting better. at making perfume formulas. its like when you get that click in your head..all my years of reading and learning and smelling are now exploding and i kind of finally know what the heck im doing making these perfumes. so this one is all essential oils. if i get these oils as therapeutic grade this blend would be the best! cos its got so many other beneficial plants in it ... this blend would be great as an

oil and it will be my first experiment with roller bottles and making a "perfume oil" but actually its an aromatherapy blend... but dont tell anyone that! atomizer blend! its for my lungs, a stimulant, it will refresh your system (conceptually) im reading about the medicinal properties of the individual chemical constituents in the oils im using to "recreate bergamot" which has an interesting lineage! but i think calling it a perfume would be more chic. i think im going to call it Bergamot 41.... for my "original"  birthday creation. of course i had a little help along the way from all the little avatars on basenotes..... (a lot of help in the form of nudges i got from comments and posts and i would make mental notes while doing the work of smelling/memory and creation) if it works out its a simple accord and also a complicated formula. I got the lime to rework the cannabis accord actually.. wanted to try to make a bergamot with lemonile and triplal but will play with these maybe have a version with a.c.'s to add structure and longevity and strength.. and while trying to find out what triplal and lemonile was and how it could be bergamot, i ended up making a bergamot, 1, because i go a nature identical "essential oil" and a real one from the same vendor but drat could not find the bergamot, which has aired out. i did however have my old sample still and used it as a reference instead but have been using my suppliers analysis to recreate the bergamot. it would also be good as a tincture or super dilution as a flavouring there is ... ok i will give up more ingredients... hyssop (hyssopum officianalis and chamomile (chamomelum nobille) blood thinner which are beneficial  get so excited with dumb things i learn i want to tell everyone and find out what they know about it too. im such a doofus of course everyone hates this kind of behaviour. when i made the second version and smelled my last bergamot sample from new directions as a comparison i could not believe how accurate my choices were!!! of course it needed fleshing out but wow! ive never done this before picture me on the sofa on the coffee table all these bottles everywhere sniffing one palm then the other giggling with glee and shock (the bergamot from new directions was inexpensive though, do you think it was diluted, the sample on wikipedia is green almost like olive and ive never bought one like that) (i wondered if after all the good stuff was done how many more passes ethyl alcohol will have on the pressed peels) interesting bit is learning about the history of lime, which originated from a philippine citrus, from the south, not for food use but rather cosmetic in use due to its use as a shampoo (the citric acid i suppose closes the hair shaft, cleanses the scalp, and makes the hair very shiny and the oil makes the hair fragrant) it might have also coloured the hair to orange or lighter brown because of the high bergapten in the oil. which is photosensitive, then down the line as the fruit was passed along as a gift- because it would have been rather precious to tend to a live plant across the ocean if they were just using huge galleons at the time. . .i guess they brought seeds but the live plant as a gift is def the way to go and totally believeable because why import a plant that has no nutritional value (oh wait..scurvy)  at some point this lime was crossed with lemon to make the key lime probably adding more pulp as described in wiki, then this fruit was paired with the bitter orange to make bergamot . . . the rest is history !-- ok wait im a bit confused here. so citrus micrantha is bred citrus limon and then with bitter orange to make bergamot. in world war 2 italy was banned from exporting bergamot by the allied forces (united nations) to tone down their aggression during the war so other countries took over the bergamot trade for a while using sweet limes from brazil so the smell is not the same which is why (maybe) there are two bergamot oils. the original one and the fake one. and also to note bergamot oil i guess is classified as a fragrance oil because it was bred for cosmetic use. isnt that a weird spin.  there isnt much study on the medicinal effects of bergamot as of 2017. the poison is the dose is why the original limes were small and had not much juice. the strength of the scent carried it through and its origin was not lost because the fragrance could be traced. much like language and genes.

SWAPS! essential oil swaps aroma chemicals molecule one essences and fragrance materials

anyway here are the items retrieved from my diligent editing and looking up not that much at all in reality... the cape may and the coffee oil i have is up for swap too and i will finalize the tiny perfumes i can swap. there are a couple nice colognes will try and remake!

nicotiro swaps e.o.’s for a.c.’s - Dilutions are also ok (if you want me to dilute)

Would like to trade any of these EO’s or Absolutes

these are new from botanic universe. the absolutes are not concretes so they have been extracted from the concrete with ethyl alcohol and are mobile and do not need a bain marie. i have not verified these oils and consider them cosmetic grade cos what do i know. there are gcms documents on some essential oils on their site (ex rosemary spain) i put an asterisk on my favorite ones that i used right away and a % on those that need to be learned/heavily diluted.

Cassie Flower Absolute 1 ml $7 *
Gardenia Absolute 1 ml $6 *
Honeysuckle Absolute 1 ml $4 *
Reseda Absolute 1 ml $7 *
Linden Blossom Absolute 1 ml $8 %
Mimosa Absolute 1 ml $7 *
Labdanum Absolute 5 ml $7 *
Rose de Mai Absolute 1 ml $4 *
Bergamot Nature Identical (Base) 1 ml $2
Yuzu Essential Oil 1 ml $2 *
Vetiver Essential Oil 1 ml $2 *
Vanilla Essential Oil (India) 1 ml $2 %
Tagetes Essential Oil (Egypt) 1 ml $2 %
Rosemary Essential Oil (Spain) 1 ml $2 *
Ravensara Essential Oil (Madagascar) 1 ml $2
Orange Bitter Essential Oil 1 ml $2
Orange (5 Fold) Essential Oil 1 ml $2
Opoponax Essential Oil (Egypt) 1 ml $3 * (have one 5ml unopened $15)
Niaouli Essential Oil (Madagascar) 1 ml $2
Nerolina Essential Oil (Australia) 1 ml $2 %
Myrtle Essential Oil (Morocco) 1 ml $2
Michelia Alba Leaf Essential Oil 1 ml $2 *
Litsea Cubeba Essential Oil 1 ml $2
Lovage Leaf Essential Oil (France) 1 ml $3%
Lemon 5 Fold (Sicily) Essential Oil 1 ml $3
Ginger Root CO2 Essential Oil (India) 1 ml $2
Geranium Essential Oil (Bourbon) 1 ml $4 *
Fir Needle Siberian Essential Oil 1 ml $2
Fir Balsam Essential Oil (Canada) 1 ml $2
Cypress Australian Blue Essential Oil 1 ml $8 *
Copaiba Balsam Essential Oil 2 ml $2 *
Cinnamon Leaf Essential Oil 1 ml $2
Cedar Leaf (Thuja) Essential Oil 1 ml $3 *
Cassia Essential Oil 1 ml $2 *
Carrot Seed Essential Oil Steam Distilled 1 ml $2 *
Cajeput Essential Oil 1 ml $2
Cade Essential Oil 1 ml $2
Blood Orange Essential Oil 1 ml $2
Bay Leaf Essential Oil 1 ml $4
Benzoin Essential Oil 1 ml $2 *
Angelica Root Essential Oil (India) 1 ml $5 (have one 5ml unopened)
Amyris Essential Oil 1 ml $2 *

from oshun.ca these are my old stash and have sentimental value to me as these are the oils i used learning
violet leaf concrete... 1 ml only $10
oakmoss concrete... 1 ml only $10
clary sage essential oil... swap up to 2 ml, $2 per ml
ylang slang extra (III) can swap up to 1 ml $10 this is under ifra restriction!

from new directions canada
hyssop essential oil 1 ml $2 *
cape may essential oil 1 ml $3 *%
coffee oil - green 1 ml $3

essential oils from perfumers apprentice
guaicwood 1 ml $2
coriander seed 1 ml $2
galbanum 1 ml $2

retail buys: these are new actually
vetiver madagascar / haiti... aura casia, 1 ml $5 *

divine essences: flowering tops only:
lavender - fine angustifolia linalyl acetate chemotype 1 ml $2 *
lavender spike - linalool chemotype 1 ml $2 *

roman chamomile england nelson russel aromatherapy got this on sale on a dusty shelf  1ml $10 *

These essential oils will come in a mini brocillite clear glass w ml measurements (sorry not brown glass but can wrap in paper before the bubble wrap) a black screw cap and a silicone top but there is a lid liner.

WHAT I WANT- swap by cost? these materials are off perfumers apprentice and creating perfume. if you have any of these in any amount / 2nd hand / decant / your own blend + formula we can swap formula to formula

Groomsman accord (your variant or the materials separately)
if you would like to send an accord (grojsman or otherwise) that you made, please include the formula ! i will try it in one of my compositions
(for example)
Floral accords (any, all)
Amber accords
Sandalwood recreation
Musk base
Woods base
Green base
Resinous base
Oriental base
Fruit (any) (strawberry ollifac for scenting soap)
Cream or Milk (for scenting soap)

Any mixture you can add to formulas for effects (like sparkly, fruity, powdery, dry, wet etc)

some of these are specific to a project i wanted to try:

Cyclamen Aldehyde **
Benzyl Acetate (Natural)
Hexyl Cinnamaldehyde (Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde) **
Nerol
Linalyl Acetate (Natural)
Alpha Ionone (Natural)
Hydroxycitronellal Pure (High Laurine)
Ethyl Methyl-2-Butyrate **
Benzyl Benzoate **
Benzyl Salicylate
Cinnamic alcohol
Benzyl Alcohol FCC
Methyl Ionone Gamma (Coeur) (IFF) **
Phenyl Acetaldehyde
Linalool (Natural)
Citral (Natural)
Costus Oliffac (IFF)
Ethyl Cinnamate
Vetiveryl Acetate
Aldehyde C-14 PEACH
Para-cresyl methyl ether
Para-cresyl acetate
Indolene 50 (IFF)
Iso Eugenol
Iso E Super® (IFF) **
Methyl Ionone Gamma (Coeur) (IFF) **
Exaltolide® Total (Firmenich)
Romandolide® (Firmenich)
Hedione® HC (Firmenich)
Ambroxan 10% (DPG)


 HABANOLIDE (Firmenich)
 VERTENEX HC (IFF)
 CYCLABUTE (IFF)
 Aldehyde C-11 Undecylenic
 Ethylene Brassylate
 CYCLAMEN ALDEHYDE EXTRA
 HELVETOLIDE (FIRMENICH)
 Benzyl Acetate
 ISO E SUPER®
 CIS-3-HEXENYL SALICYLATE EXTRA
 Gamma decalactone
 VETIVER ACETATE
 NECTARATE (IFF)
 NEPALVA (IFF)
 CITRONELLOL COEUR (IFF)
 gamma-VALEROLACTONE FCC
 BUTYL ANTHRANILATE
 MENTHANYL ACETATE
 PARADISAMIDE® Givaudan
 AZARBRE (Givaudan)
 FRUCTALATE ® (Firmenich)
 STRAWBERRY OLIFFAC IFF
 SAFRALEINE™ (Givaudan)
 LABDANUM RESINOID
 b-NAPTHYL ISOBUTYL ETHER 80
 HEDIONE
 CITROLATE ™ (IFF)
 MOROCCAN ROSE ABSOLUTE
 TANGERINE 5 FOLD EO
 KEPHALIS (Givaudan)
 BEESWAX ABSOLUTE
 HAY ABSOLUTE Natural Blend
 Apritone (Bedoukian)
 FIXATEUR 505 E® (Firmenich)
 Amber Xtreme™ (IFF)
 BENZYL BENZOATE
 BENZYL SALICYLATE
 BETA-DAMASCONE (FIRMENICH)
 CEDRAMBER (IFF)
 TONKA BEAN ABSOLUTE
 CONIFERAN PURE (IFF)
 CYCLOHEXYL ETHYL ALCOHOL
 Methyl Anthranilate
 ROMANDOLIDE (FIRMENICH)
 AMBRAIN NATURAL IFF
 BEESWAX ABSOLUTE
 PASSION FRUIT BASE FIRMENICH
 Eugenol
 Ambrettolide (IFF)
 IONONE EXTRA BHT (IFF)
 VETIVAL® SYMRISE
 METHYL CINNAMATE
 SYRINGA ALDEHYDE
 NARCISSE BASE (Firmenich)
 DAMASCENONE 93%
 TUBEROSE ABSOLUTE
 OSMANTHUS ABSOLUTE 3% TEC
 ORANGE OIL 10 FOLD
 VERTOFIX® COEUR
 ETHYL MYRISTATE NATURAL
 FIXOBOIS FIRMENICH 66606
 Acalea TT
 ROSEMARY VERBENONE
 CYCLO HEXYL SALICYLATE
 LIATRIX ABSOLUTE
 IMMORTELLE ABSOLUTE
 ANISYL ACETATE
 COMPOSITION 37987-01 SYNAROME
 BENZYL ISOBUTYRATE
 Vetiver Haiti EO
 Aldehyde C-10
 Aurantia
 AMBROFIX FLAKES
 MENTHOL CRYSTALS

Vanilla
Indole
CYCLABUTE (IFF)
Bacdanol (IFF)
GELSOL F (IFF)
Ethylene Brassylate
ETHYL LINALOOL
BICYCLONONALACTONE (IFF)
Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde
ISO E SUPER®
Citrus Accord
Musk Fruit Accord
Magnolia Accord
Sandalwood Agar Accord 
Wood Accord
KOHINOOL (IFF)
Amber
VETIVER ACETATE
ISOMUSCONE® Symrise
CELESTOLIDE (IFF)
LIFFAROME™ (IFF)
DIMETHYL OCTANYL ACETATE
Andrane (IFF)
DECALACTONE, DELTA (Symrise)
BLACKWOOD FIRMENICH
METHYL LAITONE 10% (Givaudan)
gamma-VALEROLACTONE FCC
BUTYL ANTHRANILATE
Coumarex DB (IFF)
Black & Red Currant Accord
Amyl Salicylate
NERYL ACETATE (IFF)
VANORIS (IFF)
PARADISAMIDE® Givaudan
AZARBRE (Givaudan)
STRAWBERRY OLIFFAC IFF
VELOUTONE™ (Firmenich)
LABDANUM RESINOID
SANTALIFF
HEDIONE
CYCLOPIDENE (Firmenich)
DORINIA SA E
LIMBWOOD BASE 109289B 
HEDIONE HC Firmenich 
FRAISTONE 
LACTOSCATON (Symrise)
Hexyl Salicylate
KEPHALIS (Givaudan)
HAY ABSOLUTE Natural Blend 
FIXATEUR 505 E® (Firmenich) 
LINALYL ANTHRANILATE
BETA-DAMASCONE (FIRMENICH)
TONKA BEAN ABSOLUTE
BENZYL ALCOHOL
CYCLOHEXYL ETHYL ALCOHOL
DATILAT (Symrise)
Dimethyl Anthranilate
Dimethyl Benzyl Carbinyl Butyrate
Methyl Anthranilate
Phenyl Propyl Alcohol
BEESWAX ABSOLUTE
TRIMOFIX O
PHENYL ETHYL ALCOHOL
Eugenol
Amyl Benzoate 
Ambrettolide (IFF) 
BERRYFLOR® GIVAUDAN
ETHYL HEPTOATE
3,4-Dimethoxybenzaldehyde, Veratraldehyde
VANILLIN
Ambroxan (KAO)
LACTOJASMONE
DAMASCENONE 93%
METHYL TRANS-CINNAMATE
ORANGE OIL 10 FOLD 
BERGAMOT (Givaudan) 104 
OUD OLIFFAC IFF 
VERTOFIX® COEUR 
Aldinyle 3880 Synarome
LINALOOL
GURJUN BALSAM
GUAVANATE
TARRAGON OIL 
IMMORTELLE ABSOLUTE 
ANISYL ACETATE 
CRISALYS S SYNAROME
PRETTY OUD Firmenich
TIMBERSILK (IFF)
ISORALDEINE ® 95 (Givaudan)
ISO BUTYL QUINOLINE
ACACIA ABSOLUTE.




i have a swap page for perfumers or people interested in essential oils...
http://www.basenotes.net/threads/476459-nicotiro-swaps-e-o-s-for-a-c-s

was thinking about also having the samples up in case anyone wanted to try some but do not have anything to trade, then they could just send me some money for it.

.:
ok weird just now im getting loads of flak on the basenotes forum
its some kind of shilling or some kind of public shaming of women online
thats what it feels like to me. anyway. so theres that.... as usual. so im kind of bummed i wont log in anymore or read the forum because it literally takes me away from what im buzzing around there looking for, a phrase, some kind of connection with a smell that i can make with what i have or learn something new from what i have and this knowledge isnt fully hald up front like its very loosely accessed and the trolls they take it away with their inane demands on polictical correctness and even now i feel like another unpaid shill for some kind of fight between the british and french schools of aromatherapy oh for fucks sake and then it goes on and on and cries out loud. if it wasnt for the internet where would be. outside no doubt, in civilized society!


 

Scalp Tonic !

My scalp tonic !!! Formula !!
I have posted additional oils in my basenotes thread found here:
http://www.basenotes.net/threads/459171-EO-Perfume-blends-Fougere-Chypre-amp-Cologne?p=4556889&viewfull=1#post4556889


Hmm online content is online content!
Here is my post (yippeee the colours remain!)


Update!
Scalp Tonic!
Been working on research regarding the scalp tonic. A lot of the essential oils need high percentages for them to work as referenced in the studies. So I was going to make two versions, the aromatherapy version which might not smell like a perfume at all, and a daily scalp tonic which would be the one that smells better.

Original blend:
12 rosemary - aids penetration
07 lav - aids synergy
04 mint - circulatory stimulation
02 geranium - hormone balancing
01 neroli - pore tightening

I would like to add the following oils in a pleasing way.
sicilian lemon - antibacterial
magnolia leaf - antifungal
frankincense - wound healing
thyme - anti bacterial
marjoram - anti bacterial
ravensara - anti viral
cedar atlas - sebum control
vetiver - yeast control

Aroma chems:
sandalore - hair growth- only needs .005% to work
farnesol - anti bacterial

(these are ones I do not have but have been referenced in study)
eugenol
cavacrol
thymol

Made a recent blend with all the additional oils on a trace of sandalore and farnesol, only denatured alcohol and water. It smells … ok, it smells like an aromatherapy blend, I can still smell the original blend, sweet, juicy and herbal mint. The most interesting part is how it regulates my circadian rhythm when I apply it at night before bed. Its happened by coincidence so many times that I think it actually works. I spray the mixture directly on my scalp and rub it in with my fingertips. There is a slight cooling action from evaporation and eventually the peppermint. When applied before bed at around 10-12 midnight, I wake up at the crack of dawn, naturally, without fail. Its mildly annoying! When not used I wake up much later in the morning, and usually get up frequently at night. So i’m not sure what’s worse!

Would like to make this into an aromatic perfume somehow. Any suggestions? At some point I was hoping to make this a finished product for sale. So far all I have is negative income from all of my research and experimenting. What an expensive "hobby"!

amber perfume

damn it to hell my lotion smells like dill and cucumbers, a sea of cucumbers by bath and body works is what my friend said and i wanted to throw it away. whatever. he was using axe products when i met him. anyway i made a simple fresh amber perfume and got to smell it again today, thank god i wrote the formula down because i love it and want to repeat it. though, without the lavender alcohol i made it might not smell the same. so there are variations.
it smells of vanilla, sandalwood, musk, lavender extract, and heliotrope. the lavender alcohol i made, its green, and it smells of hay and dried grass and lavender. the amber perfume is very nice and mild and natural smelling even though its mostly aroma chems in the lavender alcohol as a base.  still going to make an amber using essential oils only. labdanum, im almost out and want to try it from a different supplier to get a better sense of it. and vetiver, sandalwood and benzoin. im dreaming of it because i made something similar and the smell was amazing resinous and balsamic but im not sure if i have a good handle on what balsamic smells like. or resinous for that matter. the vetiver from botanic planet is so good it smells like a perfume on its own. just amazing. and the magnolia leaf in low dilution was like how farnesol smells in trace. i made a .01 in 10 grams and it smells similar to isobutavan, to me, it has a vanilla cream aspect to it. im not sure though since i only have so few chemicals to smell. mostly im super impressed with learning the ratios of using the essentials oils when i look up demo formulas in the good scents company, like this recent chypre i copied. ive been using these oils for years now but never figured out the concentrations for example petitgrain, i would never use it higher than other oils or corriander seed which i recently bought but havent used much due to its strength, i wouldnt pair it at the same ratio of anything but in the chypre formula i copied from good scents the ratios of these strong materials is very high, same with the galbanum, such a strong material, but the smell is great in this formula, i can tell how much i over dosed based on the formula (tweaked the ratios as well as made lots of substitution) and im just really glad i found this new hobby to learn how to use the essential oils as perfume. most of the perfumes im making could be all essential oils if i could afford them because these chemicals are really strange, for example farnesol has a anti fugal activity ? or is it anti bacterial, on a certain organism. on human skin. i do not remember the concentration because i dont think i read the entire study, but i do remember the sandalore concentration and its something like .005 lol. really miniscule. that was the concentration in the cream preparation or what did they use to apply it, on the skin, for the sensors to sense the chemical in its atmosphere to stimulate a growth stage of hairs. they dissected mice for this. there are close up pictures of the mice hairs sliced ala damien hurst, growing. pretty intense. im not sure if the study detailed humans? now that im recalling the horror of reading this study just to prove science, im getting rather ill and wonder if it was actually the sandalore study. oh man to be a mouse in a little test zone...oh wait. .
so i was going to rereate the amber perfume but i should buy pipettes. the tiny sample bottles are wasted with little drips around the rims when i use a toothpick to guide the drops, so inaccurate as well. all my formulas since i stopped reusing droppers have been pure luck or misfortune, for example the galbanum overdose. ugh. . .
because i wonder what the smoking violets perfume would smell like with an amber base. havent even finished my design for the label.  did housekeeping today and have some money to buy supplies even though i shouldnt because its not what i should be doing. woops. so greedy vs reality. but single use droppers are absolutely essential ever since my black agar and smelled like it had cassis. ugh.. also found a low cost .001 scale with the auto shut off feature shut offable.
ahh im just touching my hands that were over dry but now totally smoothed over from using the lotion. an amber lotion would be choice! now that i know how to make a fluffy and creamy lotion, this is the formula i wanted for the smoking violets lotion. just hadnt made it yet, and still havent because i made the formula in my head as it was coming along and it was over 100% hmmm also the lotion has some ethanol in it and i could feel it on my over dry skin the first time i put it on, it was like yeow, same thing when i put it on my face, around my nose, it stung yikes, but wow on my hands it was super stingy but worth it i guess because my hands cured super fast and the skin smoothed over. and it doesnt sting when i use it anymore. there was broken / dry skin so it stung. much like when i used the lavender alcohol diluted on over dry plus lye fume burned hands. for the lotion i used .10 of sodium lactate and 2% ipm and 2% dimethicone as recommended in swifts lotions, 78% water so its really fluffy with mostly peach kernel oil. ahhh im so pleased and want that amber lotion! im lucky to have these comforts. oh yeah actually i fudged when my bank was locked i was in the middle of supply shopping and actually i had some preservatives in a bought cart i couldnt pay for. my preservative is all clumpy and done. i should have added it to glycerine or something, i have some in peg 400 but no one uses that stuff topically. and i have the phenoxyethanol and caprylyl glycol stuff but its not antifungal. sighing til diy'ing. oh yeah and i forgot about my new use for xylitol. hey wheres my lame go fund me <<<<< insert link hither

perfuming lotions

Lotion!
made a lotion last night its so nice. with peach kernel oil, pumpkin seed, almond oil, it has silicone and ipm and custom perfume blends.
watery thick and scented lightly and non obtrusively, my fave
made 200 grams (two scents) and made this accord i thought is like
dirty white petal - creamy green - watery
its got hyacinth, and magnolan and magnolia leaf essential oil, green notes like undercavertol, and creamy watery green like trace of farnesol, and i cant remember the rest... heliotropex n, and isobutavan, oh yeah
its linear and clean and i don't really know what im doing but matching scents i like to compile for a perfume.
for the other bottle its the leather green chypre with .06 too much galbanum, so i added bergamot and amyris and extra clearwood and juniper berry and spruce. its also got petitgrain, copied a recipe found in the good scents for a chypre but with loads of substitutions for the aroma chems and some essential oils i dont have anymore like fir needle, don't think i ever had it, subbed it with juniper berry and spruce and was going to add borneol crystal but didn't. used veramoss and treemoss and oakmoss and the leather accord with castoreum, lots of Sicilian lemon oil, and lemonile, a very tiny amount, so i think it turned into a woody colognpre. it started as an airy ozone (too)green leather chypre ?it has coriander seed, Virginia cedar wood, and a rose blend with triplal and other green notes, bergamot as top, sandalwood ebanol combo (oh i did not add musk ketone) its also got green coffee oil which i think is gone bad already (so sad wth) or i need to change the container. ugh. those plastic droppers are killer. and it also has tobacco. it hasn't developed and i will try to make it again because my recipe vs my reality was most inaccurate. lol. no pipettes imagine that.
In the lotion the colognpre will have to wait on its second opinion. Meanwhile I'm enjoying mine and will try it as an after shower full body lotion.

I Love You Soap - red rose swirl handmade soap

For Valentines day!
https://www.etsy.com/ca/listing/665987874/i-love-you-soap-red-rose-clay-swirl

I made this one a wrapper but no pic of it

originally published on Jan 19

PINQ STRAWBERRY

new soap

pink clay and a touch of shea with 

a fruity floral rose reminiscent of 

strawberries, ylang ylang and wine

messed up closing photoshop before shut down last night and lost the layers so got to do the cover again
but ahhhh how satisfying
also need to get paper
this paper is no good for the ink
 not sure how it smelled so strongly of strawberries but now a few days later the open bars are just starting to smell like rose again....this one packaged last night has brought the stawberry scent back.
i didnt measure the oils when making the scent so i lost the recipe...this soap loaf is the only one!

 originally published on Jan. 18

soaps for sale

made two for sale, theyre on etsy

man blend
https://www.etsy.com/ca/listing/654423879/man-blend-soap-black-agar-leather

pardon the messy desk that wines been around for weeks it seems.


and rose and violet leaf. its a floral.
https://www.etsy.com/ca/listing/640579048/rose-violet-leaf-artisan-soap

need to work on the product photo but id rather work on making the fragrance, making the soap, or making the label.

the etsy listings ill update when i get the packaging at its best. i have a feeling no one can afford the shipping. might have to make tiny soaps for online.

New Cannabis Soap

Made a soap on Friday and cut it on Sunday
its a bit too fatty......

i got to soap outside

 didnt really prepare the area very well (thats my lye water in the peanut glass)

 heres the blend

 and they looked super great .....

 super squishy looking and thick

 nice batter

 then they gelled and the tops were ruined

 squish

 heres me minding the day, i made a mango salad and watched them not gel

 the mango salad was delicious

 then i insulated them and they gelled.
and had some problems because i left them covered in plastic the whole next day (dumb) and the big one had condensation and started brown spots and i was horrified
so i made a cutter and sliced the top off

this was the cutter i made. it sucked.

 heres the slice. see the spots?

 then underneath you can see how fatty the soap is

 this is the uneven sliced off top

 heres the soap

 you can see the gel phase

 these were the small container

 different colour from the large container

and here is the soap mold i was starting to make with the landlord bill.
he cut these for me and lent me stain and varnish

Citric Acid Conditioner ?

I think i made citric acid conditioner? i was using citric acid to rinse out soap scum but it turns out once my hair got used to the soap i made i didnt really need a conditioner anymore.

1/4 tsp guar to 1/3 c water and 1/16 tsp citric acid (these are all approximate ratios) (i used the ph strip and no scale, which ill make one after i try this blind recipe)

its ph was 5 and i lowered it to 4. is that too acidic?

and its got micelles of castor oil in it. should i have used a different oil (you can see not all the guar gum is dissolved yet)

im going to try it out as a rinse for my hair soap and see what happens.

was playing with the guar gum and its super. so no guar gum lotion yet but maybe this is a conditioner.

not really sure why it takes me so long to play with ingredients?
now im all excited because i think i made hair conditioner.
sheesh.

i guess its a thickened acid water / rinse, and it has some oil in it.
is it a conditioner?

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hair_conditioner
http://swiftcraftymonkey.blogspot.com/2011/02/thickeners-guar-gum.html


i guess if i add the polysorbate to the oils then add it to citric acid water then add the guar gum, then its kinda like conditioner.

what took me so long to do this? i didnt even need to think about it because ive been reading about hair stuff for so long now (cos my hair fell out remember)
i just needed the space and peace to sit down and focus on doing it.

did i make conditioner? i will try a better trial later. i think the guar gum needs 8 hours to fully absorb? and how long will it last?

here is one with more pics + almond milk
https://nicoletirona.blogspot.com/2018/07/almond-milk-cream-hair-rinse.html

Skin Brightening Lotion

I think I used expired cetyl alcohol nf, im not sure, it wasnt stored properly and has been sitting around for ages.
other than the waxing effect of the cetyl alcohol this lotion i think feels ok-good. i chickened out using a water phase thickener like arrowroot or guar gum so ill try that with just regular oil.
so anyway this skin brightening lotions ph might be 6. i have no ph meter and used a test strip on some of the lotion in distilled water and it tested 6 but i dont think thats accurate at all (https://www.researchgate.net/post/How_to_measure_pH_of_cosmetic_cream_formulation_accurately)
so i almost want to add the b3 because it says not to add it to acidic formulas to prevent nicotinic acid formation through oxidation upon contact with water. not sure but i guess it turns into niacin and too much of that internally i know makes your skin flush. but because i dont know the ph.... (is my arm burning? i dont know, its tripping me out)

anyway this lotion is nonionic but im not really sure what that does in terms of skin care properties (need more research)

it has
aloe vera
nutritious oils: mct, hemp, pumpkin seed
precious oils: meadowfoam, rosehip, baobab
2% fruit acid (alpha hydroxy acid) (so its not very strong because I dont have a ph meter)
helichrysum extract
(and i might add the vitamin b3)

im trying it out on one suntanned arm. at night. and on my face, there are three sun spots on my cheek i want to fade.
no essential oil blend to scent it yet, i cannot decide.

here are the pics!

measuring out the ingredients

here is a video of the emulsification!!

mixing mixing ... had bubbles because i was pressing too strong while holding the camera :(

after cooling a bit, it thickened well, i was actually kind of hoping for a more watery lotion but i didnt use a water phase thickener and instead used cetyl alcohol

ahhh...

maybe ill take better pics tomorrow or just for the next trial where i will try a starch as a thickener so the lotion is more water
.:
p.s. i learned all this lotion speak from : http://swiftcraftymonkey.blogspot.com/ 

p.p.s. im scenting this blend with my anti-aging calming essential oil blend -it smells great but now got a bad batch of galbanum oil from a different supplier so it doesnt smell as good as the original calming blend :( still good though.

.:
july 12th 10:30 pm
i dont know if i should add the aromatherapy blend to this lotion. i think its going to go bad or something. i forgot it in my rush to leave for the day and left it in my room with plastic wrap over it and it was stuffy and hot in my room. it seems fine but it probably isnt. so im just going to use it up as is and try again. i actually really freaking love this lotion. its got a great "squishy" texture, it only does the waxing effect when you have a huge glop on your arm, otherwise it disappears quick and aborbs well, has a dry feeling, but there is a slight drag that takes a while to absorb (maybe 10 mins) and i swear it reduced my brow furrow, and smoothed the texture of my skin after the 5th ot 6th application. i usually put it on after a shower or when i wash my face and i just rub it in for a while cos i space out while im doing it thinking about how awesome it is i made a lotion that i wouldnt be able to afford if it was in a store. and that ill always be able to do this and only get better at it.
the other one unfortunately i transferred to a dirty container because i know i didnt sanitize or wash it properly and it was also in my room all day and the container smells bad. like a slight smell of something that doesnt smell botanical or fresh at all so its in the sink looking forlorn. im really bummed about my lack of facilities and containers, but i am really stoked on the skin brightening lotion formula and kind of want to make it again without cetyl alcohol, but i dont know what to replace it with. starches. maybe. honestly my skin is so damn smooth now i am so impressed with the stuff really. i just hope i can make money off my ideas somehow because im so broke on welfare and it makes me anxious that i cant do what i want to do because of lack of money and lack of people around me who understand me when i speak. most people think im really dumb. its really disappointing to me and insulting but what can you do.

Chypre Sunflower Stearic Acid Soap (cold process - gel phase)

Sunflower soap with Stearic Acid scented with the classic Chypre

im so excited to use this in the shower!!!!
and what concentration?

going to replicate the same recipe. i posted it on twitter. and no trying to gel phase it. the gel phased soap is still soft and i cant smell any of the mild blend i added in.

so i will add the .5 grams of the oil blend at trace because thats what i did with the first cannabis soap (the coconut one) and how the scent dissipates is amazing.

OK I HAVE MADE THE SOAP
couldnt find the container so i ended up using a milk carton. then i found the container but it was too late.

put it by the window about 10-20 mintes after mixing in the essential oil blend (because i was hesitant to gel phase it due to the citrus oils and heat) but im glad i did. i wonder how long this will take to dry and what colour it will end up. it wasnt as bright white as the original sunflower with stearic acid soap due to the essential oil blend.

 see that cracked surface
its a good sign according to eviks blog

se

going to make one more with the peru balsam chypre blend i made last night.

.:
i didnt. i made the regular chypre with the green chypre (i made two versions, one has a green note from cape may and green coffee and actual cannabis live resin "atomic jack" strain)

so here is the gelled soap unboxed. i put it in the freezer for a bit because i am impatient.

its not as white as the unscented one. to note: the unscented one kind of smells like stale cooking oil now. im not sure if it smells like that when used though
:(

and here is the other one, not gelled

this soap smells great. its got this classic cologne scent.
pops out of the mold really easy. i suppose some point ill have an actual soap mold. or find another suitable organizer.

this girl said the chypre scent to her smells like some kind of chest rub?
i was disappointed. lol.
the benzoin vetiver and sandalwood blend she said smells like grass and wood. so i guess thats pretty accurate. overall impression i dont think she liked either of them. lol.
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 they are so nice and shiny when polished a bit