bergamot tip !

im making a bergamot recreation and its already super realistic with 6 ingredients! just found 5 more to add in small amounts. im only using essential oils and its a lot of fun, like doing a puzzle or mind game, if you like those.... been making dilutions all day and im so glad i invested in 100 tiny bottles! .30 cents a piece is a small price to pay for the convenience of use! so many dilutions!
ive made a few formulas for other perfume ideas and some of the accords i made are turning out really well. if i didnt get that thanaka lime also known as persian lime (its those little black ones for food) which is citrus x latifolia (key lime and lemon) i wouldnt have been able to make this wonderful bergamot recreation!
some of the ingredients im using are
bitter orange (citrus x aurantium) respiratory, lemon (citrus limon), blood orange (citrus x sinensis), ...... woops ! dont want to give it all away! specially now that im getting better. at making perfume formulas. its like when you get that click in your head..all my years of reading and learning and smelling are now exploding and i kind of finally know what the heck im doing making these perfumes. so this one is all essential oils. if i get these oils as therapeutic grade this blend would be the best! cos its got so many other beneficial plants in it ... this blend would be great as an

oil and it will be my first experiment with roller bottles and making a "perfume oil" but actually its an aromatherapy blend... but dont tell anyone that! atomizer blend! its for my lungs, a stimulant, it will refresh your system (conceptually) im reading about the medicinal properties of the individual chemical constituents in the oils im using to "recreate bergamot" which has an interesting lineage! but i think calling it a perfume would be more chic. i think im going to call it Bergamot 41.... for my "original"  birthday creation. of course i had a little help along the way from all the little avatars on basenotes..... (a lot of help in the form of nudges i got from comments and posts and i would make mental notes while doing the work of smelling/memory and creation) if it works out its a simple accord and also a complicated formula. I got the lime to rework the cannabis accord actually.. wanted to try to make a bergamot with lemonile and triplal but will play with these maybe have a version with a.c.'s to add structure and longevity and strength.. and while trying to find out what triplal and lemonile was and how it could be bergamot, i ended up making a bergamot, 1, because i go a nature identical "essential oil" and a real one from the same vendor but drat could not find the bergamot, which has aired out. i did however have my old sample still and used it as a reference instead but have been using my suppliers analysis to recreate the bergamot. it would also be good as a tincture or super dilution as a flavouring there is ... ok i will give up more ingredients... hyssop (hyssopum officianalis and chamomile (chamomelum nobille) blood thinner which are beneficial  get so excited with dumb things i learn i want to tell everyone and find out what they know about it too. im such a doofus of course everyone hates this kind of behaviour. when i made the second version and smelled my last bergamot sample from new directions as a comparison i could not believe how accurate my choices were!!! of course it needed fleshing out but wow! ive never done this before picture me on the sofa on the coffee table all these bottles everywhere sniffing one palm then the other giggling with glee and shock (the bergamot from new directions was inexpensive though, do you think it was diluted, the sample on wikipedia is green almost like olive and ive never bought one like that) (i wondered if after all the good stuff was done how many more passes ethyl alcohol will have on the pressed peels) interesting bit is learning about the history of lime, which originated from a philippine citrus, from the south, not for food use but rather cosmetic in use due to its use as a shampoo (the citric acid i suppose closes the hair shaft, cleanses the scalp, and makes the hair very shiny and the oil makes the hair fragrant) it might have also coloured the hair to orange or lighter brown because of the high bergapten in the oil. which is photosensitive, then down the line as the fruit was passed along as a gift- because it would have been rather precious to tend to a live plant across the ocean if they were just using huge galleons at the time. . .i guess they brought seeds but the live plant as a gift is def the way to go and totally believeable because why import a plant that has no nutritional value (oh wait..scurvy)  at some point this lime was crossed with lemon to make the key lime probably adding more pulp as described in wiki, then this fruit was paired with the bitter orange to make bergamot . . . the rest is history !-- ok wait im a bit confused here. so citrus micrantha is bred citrus limon and then with bitter orange to make bergamot. in world war 2 italy was banned from exporting bergamot by the allied forces (united nations) to tone down their aggression during the war so other countries took over the bergamot trade for a while using sweet limes from brazil so the smell is not the same which is why (maybe) there are two bergamot oils. the original one and the fake one. and also to note bergamot oil i guess is classified as a fragrance oil because it was bred for cosmetic use. isnt that a weird spin.  there isnt much study on the medicinal effects of bergamot as of 2017. the poison is the dose is why the original limes were small and had not much juice. the strength of the scent carried it through and its origin was not lost because the fragrance could be traced. much like language and genes.

SWAPS! essential oil swaps aroma chemicals molecule one essences and fragrance materials

anyway here are the items retrieved from my diligent editing and looking up not that much at all in reality... the cape may and the coffee oil i have is up for swap too and i will finalize the tiny perfumes i can swap. there are a couple nice colognes will try and remake!

nicotiro swaps e.o.’s for a.c.’s - Dilutions are also ok (if you want me to dilute)

Would like to trade any of these EO’s or Absolutes

these are new from botanic universe. the absolutes are not concretes so they have been extracted from the concrete with ethyl alcohol and are mobile and do not need a bain marie. i have not verified these oils and consider them cosmetic grade cos what do i know. there are gcms documents on some essential oils on their site (ex rosemary spain) i put an asterisk on my favorite ones that i used right away and a % on those that need to be learned/heavily diluted.

Cassie Flower Absolute 1 ml $7 *
Gardenia Absolute 1 ml $6 *
Honeysuckle Absolute 1 ml $4 *
Reseda Absolute 1 ml $7 *
Linden Blossom Absolute 1 ml $8 %
Mimosa Absolute 1 ml $7 *
Labdanum Absolute 5 ml $7 *
Rose de Mai Absolute 1 ml $4 *
Bergamot Nature Identical (Base) 1 ml $2
Yuzu Essential Oil 1 ml $2 *
Vetiver Essential Oil 1 ml $2 *
Vanilla Essential Oil (India) 1 ml $2 %
Tagetes Essential Oil (Egypt) 1 ml $2 %
Rosemary Essential Oil (Spain) 1 ml $2 *
Ravensara Essential Oil (Madagascar) 1 ml $2
Orange Bitter Essential Oil 1 ml $2
Orange (5 Fold) Essential Oil 1 ml $2
Opoponax Essential Oil (Egypt) 1 ml $3 * (have one 5ml unopened $15)
Niaouli Essential Oil (Madagascar) 1 ml $2
Nerolina Essential Oil (Australia) 1 ml $2 %
Myrtle Essential Oil (Morocco) 1 ml $2
Michelia Alba Leaf Essential Oil 1 ml $2 *
Litsea Cubeba Essential Oil 1 ml $2
Lovage Leaf Essential Oil (France) 1 ml $3%
Lemon 5 Fold (Sicily) Essential Oil 1 ml $3
Ginger Root CO2 Essential Oil (India) 1 ml $2
Geranium Essential Oil (Bourbon) 1 ml $4 *
Fir Needle Siberian Essential Oil 1 ml $2
Fir Balsam Essential Oil (Canada) 1 ml $2
Cypress Australian Blue Essential Oil 1 ml $8 *
Copaiba Balsam Essential Oil 2 ml $2 *
Cinnamon Leaf Essential Oil 1 ml $2
Cedar Leaf (Thuja) Essential Oil 1 ml $3 *
Cassia Essential Oil 1 ml $2 *
Carrot Seed Essential Oil Steam Distilled 1 ml $2 *
Cajeput Essential Oil 1 ml $2
Cade Essential Oil 1 ml $2
Blood Orange Essential Oil 1 ml $2
Bay Leaf Essential Oil 1 ml $4
Benzoin Essential Oil 1 ml $2 *
Angelica Root Essential Oil (India) 1 ml $5 (have one 5ml unopened)
Amyris Essential Oil 1 ml $2 *

from oshun.ca these are my old stash and have sentimental value to me as these are the oils i used learning
violet leaf concrete... 1 ml only $10
oakmoss concrete... 1 ml only $10
clary sage essential oil... swap up to 2 ml, $2 per ml
ylang slang extra (III) can swap up to 1 ml $10 this is under ifra restriction!

from new directions canada
hyssop essential oil 1 ml $2 *
cape may essential oil 1 ml $3 *%
coffee oil - green 1 ml $3

essential oils from perfumers apprentice
guaicwood 1 ml $2
coriander seed 1 ml $2
galbanum 1 ml $2

retail buys: these are new actually
vetiver madagascar / haiti... aura casia, 1 ml $5 *

divine essences: flowering tops only:
lavender - fine angustifolia linalyl acetate chemotype 1 ml $2 *
lavender spike - linalool chemotype 1 ml $2 *

roman chamomile england nelson russel aromatherapy got this on sale on a dusty shelf  1ml $10 *

These essential oils will come in a mini brocillite clear glass w ml measurements (sorry not brown glass but can wrap in paper before the bubble wrap) a black screw cap and a silicone top but there is a lid liner.

WHAT I WANT- swap by cost? these materials are off perfumers apprentice and creating perfume. if you have any of these in any amount / 2nd hand / decant / your own blend + formula we can swap formula to formula

Groomsman accord (your variant or the materials separately)
if you would like to send an accord (grojsman or otherwise) that you made, please include the formula ! i will try it in one of my compositions
(for example)
Floral accords (any, all)
Amber accords
Sandalwood recreation
Musk base
Woods base
Green base
Resinous base
Oriental base
Fruit (any) (strawberry ollifac for scenting soap)
Cream or Milk (for scenting soap)

Any mixture you can add to formulas for effects (like sparkly, fruity, powdery, dry, wet etc)

some of these are specific to a project i wanted to try:

Cyclamen Aldehyde **
Benzyl Acetate (Natural)
Hexyl Cinnamaldehyde (Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde) **
Nerol
Linalyl Acetate (Natural)
Alpha Ionone (Natural)
Hydroxycitronellal Pure (High Laurine)
Ethyl Methyl-2-Butyrate **
Benzyl Benzoate **
Benzyl Salicylate
Cinnamic alcohol
Benzyl Alcohol FCC
Methyl Ionone Gamma (Coeur) (IFF) **
Phenyl Acetaldehyde
Linalool (Natural)
Citral (Natural)
Costus Oliffac (IFF)
Ethyl Cinnamate
Vetiveryl Acetate
Aldehyde C-14 PEACH
Para-cresyl methyl ether
Para-cresyl acetate
Indolene 50 (IFF)
Iso Eugenol
Iso E Super® (IFF) **
Methyl Ionone Gamma (Coeur) (IFF) **
Exaltolide® Total (Firmenich)
Romandolide® (Firmenich)
Hedione® HC (Firmenich)
Ambroxan 10% (DPG)


 HABANOLIDE (Firmenich)
 VERTENEX HC (IFF)
 CYCLABUTE (IFF)
 Aldehyde C-11 Undecylenic
 Ethylene Brassylate
 CYCLAMEN ALDEHYDE EXTRA
 HELVETOLIDE (FIRMENICH)
 Benzyl Acetate
 ISO E SUPER®
 CIS-3-HEXENYL SALICYLATE EXTRA
 Gamma decalactone
 VETIVER ACETATE
 NECTARATE (IFF)
 NEPALVA (IFF)
 CITRONELLOL COEUR (IFF)
 gamma-VALEROLACTONE FCC
 BUTYL ANTHRANILATE
 MENTHANYL ACETATE
 PARADISAMIDE® Givaudan
 AZARBRE (Givaudan)
 FRUCTALATE ® (Firmenich)
 STRAWBERRY OLIFFAC IFF
 SAFRALEINE™ (Givaudan)
 LABDANUM RESINOID
 b-NAPTHYL ISOBUTYL ETHER 80
 HEDIONE
 CITROLATE ™ (IFF)
 MOROCCAN ROSE ABSOLUTE
 TANGERINE 5 FOLD EO
 KEPHALIS (Givaudan)
 BEESWAX ABSOLUTE
 HAY ABSOLUTE Natural Blend
 Apritone (Bedoukian)
 FIXATEUR 505 E® (Firmenich)
 Amber Xtreme™ (IFF)
 BENZYL BENZOATE
 BENZYL SALICYLATE
 BETA-DAMASCONE (FIRMENICH)
 CEDRAMBER (IFF)
 TONKA BEAN ABSOLUTE
 CONIFERAN PURE (IFF)
 CYCLOHEXYL ETHYL ALCOHOL
 Methyl Anthranilate
 ROMANDOLIDE (FIRMENICH)
 AMBRAIN NATURAL IFF
 BEESWAX ABSOLUTE
 PASSION FRUIT BASE FIRMENICH
 Eugenol
 Ambrettolide (IFF)
 IONONE EXTRA BHT (IFF)
 VETIVAL® SYMRISE
 METHYL CINNAMATE
 SYRINGA ALDEHYDE
 NARCISSE BASE (Firmenich)
 DAMASCENONE 93%
 TUBEROSE ABSOLUTE
 OSMANTHUS ABSOLUTE 3% TEC
 ORANGE OIL 10 FOLD
 VERTOFIX® COEUR
 ETHYL MYRISTATE NATURAL
 FIXOBOIS FIRMENICH 66606
 Acalea TT
 ROSEMARY VERBENONE
 CYCLO HEXYL SALICYLATE
 LIATRIX ABSOLUTE
 IMMORTELLE ABSOLUTE
 ANISYL ACETATE
 COMPOSITION 37987-01 SYNAROME
 BENZYL ISOBUTYRATE
 Vetiver Haiti EO
 Aldehyde C-10
 Aurantia
 AMBROFIX FLAKES
 MENTHOL CRYSTALS

Vanilla
Indole
CYCLABUTE (IFF)
Bacdanol (IFF)
GELSOL F (IFF)
Ethylene Brassylate
ETHYL LINALOOL
BICYCLONONALACTONE (IFF)
Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde
ISO E SUPER®
Citrus Accord
Musk Fruit Accord
Magnolia Accord
Sandalwood Agar Accord 
Wood Accord
KOHINOOL (IFF)
Amber
VETIVER ACETATE
ISOMUSCONE® Symrise
CELESTOLIDE (IFF)
LIFFAROME™ (IFF)
DIMETHYL OCTANYL ACETATE
Andrane (IFF)
DECALACTONE, DELTA (Symrise)
BLACKWOOD FIRMENICH
METHYL LAITONE 10% (Givaudan)
gamma-VALEROLACTONE FCC
BUTYL ANTHRANILATE
Coumarex DB (IFF)
Black & Red Currant Accord
Amyl Salicylate
NERYL ACETATE (IFF)
VANORIS (IFF)
PARADISAMIDE® Givaudan
AZARBRE (Givaudan)
STRAWBERRY OLIFFAC IFF
VELOUTONE™ (Firmenich)
LABDANUM RESINOID
SANTALIFF
HEDIONE
CYCLOPIDENE (Firmenich)
DORINIA SA E
LIMBWOOD BASE 109289B 
HEDIONE HC Firmenich 
FRAISTONE 
LACTOSCATON (Symrise)
Hexyl Salicylate
KEPHALIS (Givaudan)
HAY ABSOLUTE Natural Blend 
FIXATEUR 505 E® (Firmenich) 
LINALYL ANTHRANILATE
BETA-DAMASCONE (FIRMENICH)
TONKA BEAN ABSOLUTE
BENZYL ALCOHOL
CYCLOHEXYL ETHYL ALCOHOL
DATILAT (Symrise)
Dimethyl Anthranilate
Dimethyl Benzyl Carbinyl Butyrate
Methyl Anthranilate
Phenyl Propyl Alcohol
BEESWAX ABSOLUTE
TRIMOFIX O
PHENYL ETHYL ALCOHOL
Eugenol
Amyl Benzoate 
Ambrettolide (IFF) 
BERRYFLOR® GIVAUDAN
ETHYL HEPTOATE
3,4-Dimethoxybenzaldehyde, Veratraldehyde
VANILLIN
Ambroxan (KAO)
LACTOJASMONE
DAMASCENONE 93%
METHYL TRANS-CINNAMATE
ORANGE OIL 10 FOLD 
BERGAMOT (Givaudan) 104 
OUD OLIFFAC IFF 
VERTOFIX® COEUR 
Aldinyle 3880 Synarome
LINALOOL
GURJUN BALSAM
GUAVANATE
TARRAGON OIL 
IMMORTELLE ABSOLUTE 
ANISYL ACETATE 
CRISALYS S SYNAROME
PRETTY OUD Firmenich
TIMBERSILK (IFF)
ISORALDEINE ® 95 (Givaudan)
ISO BUTYL QUINOLINE
ACACIA ABSOLUTE.




i have a swap page for perfumers or people interested in essential oils...
http://www.basenotes.net/threads/476459-nicotiro-swaps-e-o-s-for-a-c-s

was thinking about also having the samples up in case anyone wanted to try some but do not have anything to trade, then they could just send me some money for it.

.:
ok weird just now im getting loads of flak on the basenotes forum
its some kind of shilling or some kind of public shaming of women online
thats what it feels like to me. anyway. so theres that.... as usual. so im kind of bummed i wont log in anymore or read the forum because it literally takes me away from what im buzzing around there looking for, a phrase, some kind of connection with a smell that i can make with what i have or learn something new from what i have and this knowledge isnt fully hald up front like its very loosely accessed and the trolls they take it away with their inane demands on polictical correctness and even now i feel like another unpaid shill for some kind of fight between the british and french schools of aromatherapy oh for fucks sake and then it goes on and on and cries out loud. if it wasnt for the internet where would be. outside no doubt, in civilized society!


 

amber perfume

damn it to hell my lotion smells like dill and cucumbers, a sea of cucumbers by bath and body works is what my friend said and i wanted to throw it away. whatever. he was using axe products when i met him. anyway i made a simple fresh amber perfume and got to smell it again today, thank god i wrote the formula down because i love it and want to repeat it. though, without the lavender alcohol i made it might not smell the same. so there are variations.
it smells of vanilla, sandalwood, musk, lavender extract, and heliotrope. the lavender alcohol i made, its green, and it smells of hay and dried grass and lavender. the amber perfume is very nice and mild and natural smelling even though its mostly aroma chems in the lavender alcohol as a base.  still going to make an amber using essential oils only. labdanum, im almost out and want to try it from a different supplier to get a better sense of it. and vetiver, sandalwood and benzoin. im dreaming of it because i made something similar and the smell was amazing resinous and balsamic but im not sure if i have a good handle on what balsamic smells like. or resinous for that matter. the vetiver from botanic planet is so good it smells like a perfume on its own. just amazing. and the magnolia leaf in low dilution was like how farnesol smells in trace. i made a .01 in 10 grams and it smells similar to isobutavan, to me, it has a vanilla cream aspect to it. im not sure though since i only have so few chemicals to smell. mostly im super impressed with learning the ratios of using the essentials oils when i look up demo formulas in the good scents company, like this recent chypre i copied. ive been using these oils for years now but never figured out the concentrations for example petitgrain, i would never use it higher than other oils or corriander seed which i recently bought but havent used much due to its strength, i wouldnt pair it at the same ratio of anything but in the chypre formula i copied from good scents the ratios of these strong materials is very high, same with the galbanum, such a strong material, but the smell is great in this formula, i can tell how much i over dosed based on the formula (tweaked the ratios as well as made lots of substitution) and im just really glad i found this new hobby to learn how to use the essential oils as perfume. most of the perfumes im making could be all essential oils if i could afford them because these chemicals are really strange, for example farnesol has a anti fugal activity ? or is it anti bacterial, on a certain organism. on human skin. i do not remember the concentration because i dont think i read the entire study, but i do remember the sandalore concentration and its something like .005 lol. really miniscule. that was the concentration in the cream preparation or what did they use to apply it, on the skin, for the sensors to sense the chemical in its atmosphere to stimulate a growth stage of hairs. they dissected mice for this. there are close up pictures of the mice hairs sliced ala damien hurst, growing. pretty intense. im not sure if the study detailed humans? now that im recalling the horror of reading this study just to prove science, im getting rather ill and wonder if it was actually the sandalore study. oh man to be a mouse in a little test zone...oh wait. .
so i was going to rereate the amber perfume but i should buy pipettes. the tiny sample bottles are wasted with little drips around the rims when i use a toothpick to guide the drops, so inaccurate as well. all my formulas since i stopped reusing droppers have been pure luck or misfortune, for example the galbanum overdose. ugh. . .
because i wonder what the smoking violets perfume would smell like with an amber base. havent even finished my design for the label.  did housekeeping today and have some money to buy supplies even though i shouldnt because its not what i should be doing. woops. so greedy vs reality. but single use droppers are absolutely essential ever since my black agar and smelled like it had cassis. ugh.. also found a low cost .001 scale with the auto shut off feature shut offable.
ahh im just touching my hands that were over dry but now totally smoothed over from using the lotion. an amber lotion would be choice! now that i know how to make a fluffy and creamy lotion, this is the formula i wanted for the smoking violets lotion. just hadnt made it yet, and still havent because i made the formula in my head as it was coming along and it was over 100% hmmm also the lotion has some ethanol in it and i could feel it on my over dry skin the first time i put it on, it was like yeow, same thing when i put it on my face, around my nose, it stung yikes, but wow on my hands it was super stingy but worth it i guess because my hands cured super fast and the skin smoothed over. and it doesnt sting when i use it anymore. there was broken / dry skin so it stung. much like when i used the lavender alcohol diluted on over dry plus lye fume burned hands. for the lotion i used .10 of sodium lactate and 2% ipm and 2% dimethicone as recommended in swifts lotions, 78% water so its really fluffy with mostly peach kernel oil. ahhh im so pleased and want that amber lotion! im lucky to have these comforts. oh yeah actually i fudged when my bank was locked i was in the middle of supply shopping and actually i had some preservatives in a bought cart i couldnt pay for. my preservative is all clumpy and done. i should have added it to glycerine or something, i have some in peg 400 but no one uses that stuff topically. and i have the phenoxyethanol and caprylyl glycol stuff but its not antifungal. sighing til diy'ing. oh yeah and i forgot about my new use for xylitol. hey wheres my lame go fund me <<<<< insert link hither

perfuming lotions

Lotion!
made a lotion last night its so nice. with peach kernel oil, pumpkin seed, almond oil, it has silicone and ipm and custom perfume blends.
watery thick and scented lightly and non obtrusively, my fave
made 200 grams (two scents) and made this accord i thought is like
dirty white petal - creamy green - watery
its got hyacinth, and magnolan and magnolia leaf essential oil, green notes like undercavertol, and creamy watery green like trace of farnesol, and i cant remember the rest... heliotropex n, and isobutavan, oh yeah
its linear and clean and i don't really know what im doing but matching scents i like to compile for a perfume.
for the other bottle its the leather green chypre with .06 too much galbanum, so i added bergamot and amyris and extra clearwood and juniper berry and spruce. its also got petitgrain, copied a recipe found in the good scents for a chypre but with loads of substitutions for the aroma chems and some essential oils i dont have anymore like fir needle, don't think i ever had it, subbed it with juniper berry and spruce and was going to add borneol crystal but didn't. used veramoss and treemoss and oakmoss and the leather accord with castoreum, lots of Sicilian lemon oil, and lemonile, a very tiny amount, so i think it turned into a woody colognpre. it started as an airy ozone (too)green leather chypre ?it has coriander seed, Virginia cedar wood, and a rose blend with triplal and other green notes, bergamot as top, sandalwood ebanol combo (oh i did not add musk ketone) its also got green coffee oil which i think is gone bad already (so sad wth) or i need to change the container. ugh. those plastic droppers are killer. and it also has tobacco. it hasn't developed and i will try to make it again because my recipe vs my reality was most inaccurate. lol. no pipettes imagine that.
In the lotion the colognpre will have to wait on its second opinion. Meanwhile I'm enjoying mine and will try it as an after shower full body lotion.

Lemon Milk Moisturizer / Lotion

Might change the name, dont want people thinking of curdle.
Angel Cake perhaps? Some guy said that it smelled like a combination of Angel Cake and Lemony something.

Lotion samples and two kinds of soap, glycerin with Shea Butter and cold process with shea, almond, and hemp seed oils. All featuring my creamy milk accord. What shall I call this accord? Milk ?
Glass of Milk Accord?

Rice Lotion

I made some last night while going through a bout of severe anxiety!
two bottles. one with half rice water and distilled, the other full rice water. there were other differences too. i like them both and will be using them in the washroom, so i put .20 germall plus but i think its too much, like, is my arm itching or am i thinking that cos i think i put too much in. is it a phantom itch. it wont be if its a rash. sometimes ill roll a j and not wash my hands and then scratch my arm or something then that part of my arm sometimes gets all blistery. same if i rub my eyes. obviously.
ok so the rice lotion, i made a new fougere the other night just willy nilly and it smells too muddled but its only been a couple days so itll change but i wanted to use it. anyway i put some in the rice lotion. cos i put cardamom benzoin and osmanthus i thought it would be like, food lotion, but then it really kind of smelled like food, with the niacinamide smell at the end of the delicate rice smell. lol. so i added some of the new fougere. so its like this really weird rice lotion gormand fougere? which doesnt even exist. i checked. and who would want to wear a gormand fougere? maybe i was trying for an oriental fougere but then i misclassified it. the smell of the niacinamide on my skin reminds me of this synthetic copal fragrance oil bought years ago for incense making, but chucked cos it was so offensive and strong and strange. couldnt read scents back then- im only starting to learn now... might have had a better chance being a scent reader if i had never smoked.
anyway so theres the gormand fougere rice lotion its got rosehip seed and meadowfoam as the precious oils, the bulk is a base of pumpkin seed and hemp seed and some mct and peach kernel. its a lot but i like it better than just one. im playing with the peach kernel ratio with the meadowfoam and almond oil for the slippery feel so its like mct is like peach kernel and meadowfoam is like almond. but i didnt use almond. it wouldve been perfect for my weird gormand fougere though.
the second rice lotions only got baobab as the precious oil and it feels super. also different ratios of the main oils and i used orris, benzoin, and this amber blend i made over the summer for personal use made of sandalwood vetiver and benzoin to scent the lotion.i mean the oils probably all infected and stuff with germs so its just mine and hope it wont contaminate my lotion? none of these lotions ive made turned moldy. thats a lie. i got a mold spot on this one reused plastic spray pump i was using for lotion. gross right. it was the THIRD time i reused it. ok that might be a lie. maybe two. it was reused. so none of the other ones turned moldy.... one bottle of very precious oils i gave to a friend vanished and i found it a year later behind the sofa tipped over and half spilled covered in dust? lol when i cleaned it and like swept and mopped that area it smelled so amazing and still super good? i was like, woah man. this is good stuff. and all the other lotions i gave him havent gone moldy despite the super conditions of his testing laboratory. they just went stale. its like you put this stuff in here for extreme temps and if it survives, its good. well the one he left in his friends car in the middle of summer lost some viscosity. lol. then they go stale with below .10 in an unsealed or not airtight and clear flimsy plastic with no sun protection. obviously. and the rose and violet leaf chunk i dropped into the void i saw a dreaded orange spot. so that kind of bummed me out. its the sunflower oil probably. its not on any of the bars i have all wrapped and stuff though, and its the only one that got a spot from the ones i gave him so i should give those rose bars away and just list new ones, i meant to send them as presents but that would suck cos they are the ones i listed but im not sure why, kind of like a hey look you should try to get going on making stuff again (coughs) (etsy). i made the most amazing packaging for the soaps now that ive practiced and the most recent one is so cute better than the last. havent even printed them. was tied up all day it was excruciating. hmm im super tired cos no eating cos too tired. hmm not very good is it. i really wanted to eat a bunch of wilted kale and parboiled rice. but ill have to settle for something else. like sleep.

whipped butter balm from whats up moms

equal portions of beeswax, shea butter, oils. nice video on youtube of a wealthy mom making this in her fancy expensive kitchen.

oils i used:
peach kernel
pumpkin seed
hemp seed
castor seed
rosehip seed
meadowfoam seed
2 drops r.o.e.

melted beeswax, shea, oils, mixed, allowed to cool slightly, whipped.

i used this for a solid perfume blend and the beeswax added a nice aroma to the composition.
too bad i stupidly gave the only nice sample to patrice. because he is unworthy of so many samples he just leaves them to the elements and asks me when theyre all stale, you want me to use this? ugh. hate him. so ive been putting more preservative in my lotion formulas and they have dramatically improved.

research

been hiding out in the chemists corner formulating forum
http://chemistscorner.com

so many new shiny terms to learn

Skin Brightening Lotion

I think I used expired cetyl alcohol nf, im not sure, it wasnt stored properly and has been sitting around for ages.
other than the waxing effect of the cetyl alcohol this lotion i think feels ok-good. i chickened out using a water phase thickener like arrowroot or guar gum so ill try that with just regular oil.
so anyway this skin brightening lotions ph might be 6. i have no ph meter and used a test strip on some of the lotion in distilled water and it tested 6 but i dont think thats accurate at all (https://www.researchgate.net/post/How_to_measure_pH_of_cosmetic_cream_formulation_accurately)
so i almost want to add the b3 because it says not to add it to acidic formulas to prevent nicotinic acid formation through oxidation upon contact with water. not sure but i guess it turns into niacin and too much of that internally i know makes your skin flush. but because i dont know the ph.... (is my arm burning? i dont know, its tripping me out)

anyway this lotion is nonionic but im not really sure what that does in terms of skin care properties (need more research)

it has
aloe vera
nutritious oils: mct, hemp, pumpkin seed
precious oils: meadowfoam, rosehip, baobab
2% fruit acid (alpha hydroxy acid) (so its not very strong because I dont have a ph meter)
helichrysum extract
(and i might add the vitamin b3)

im trying it out on one suntanned arm. at night. and on my face, there are three sun spots on my cheek i want to fade.
no essential oil blend to scent it yet, i cannot decide.

here are the pics!

measuring out the ingredients

here is a video of the emulsification!!

mixing mixing ... had bubbles because i was pressing too strong while holding the camera :(

after cooling a bit, it thickened well, i was actually kind of hoping for a more watery lotion but i didnt use a water phase thickener and instead used cetyl alcohol

ahhh...

maybe ill take better pics tomorrow or just for the next trial where i will try a starch as a thickener so the lotion is more water
.:
p.s. i learned all this lotion speak from : http://swiftcraftymonkey.blogspot.com/ 

p.p.s. im scenting this blend with my anti-aging calming essential oil blend -it smells great but now got a bad batch of galbanum oil from a different supplier so it doesnt smell as good as the original calming blend :( still good though.

.:
july 12th 10:30 pm
i dont know if i should add the aromatherapy blend to this lotion. i think its going to go bad or something. i forgot it in my rush to leave for the day and left it in my room with plastic wrap over it and it was stuffy and hot in my room. it seems fine but it probably isnt. so im just going to use it up as is and try again. i actually really freaking love this lotion. its got a great "squishy" texture, it only does the waxing effect when you have a huge glop on your arm, otherwise it disappears quick and aborbs well, has a dry feeling, but there is a slight drag that takes a while to absorb (maybe 10 mins) and i swear it reduced my brow furrow, and smoothed the texture of my skin after the 5th ot 6th application. i usually put it on after a shower or when i wash my face and i just rub it in for a while cos i space out while im doing it thinking about how awesome it is i made a lotion that i wouldnt be able to afford if it was in a store. and that ill always be able to do this and only get better at it.
the other one unfortunately i transferred to a dirty container because i know i didnt sanitize or wash it properly and it was also in my room all day and the container smells bad. like a slight smell of something that doesnt smell botanical or fresh at all so its in the sink looking forlorn. im really bummed about my lack of facilities and containers, but i am really stoked on the skin brightening lotion formula and kind of want to make it again without cetyl alcohol, but i dont know what to replace it with. starches. maybe. honestly my skin is so damn smooth now i am so impressed with the stuff really. i just hope i can make money off my ideas somehow because im so broke on welfare and it makes me anxious that i cant do what i want to do because of lack of money and lack of people around me who understand me when i speak. most people think im really dumb. its really disappointing to me and insulting but what can you do.

Lotion Trial

Today is the lotion trial day (it started at 11, so im hiding out in the blog)

So of course before even starting or attempting to make the lotion
http://swiftcraftymonkey.blogspot.com/2015/06/why-did-my-lotion-fail-emulsifiers.html
I am also hiding out daydreaming and reading swiftcraftymonkeys blog posts on lotions.

Point of Interest!: Lotions: A basic recipe

Point of Interest!: The argument for heating & holding lotions

Point of Interest!: If you're new to lotion making...

Point of Interest!: When lotions go wrong!

also the whole desk needs to be cleared and cleaned and so does the kitchen stove area etc, so actually i was looking up buying a hotplate so of course the first store i hoped to find one was studio brilliantine

but what about a gas burner with mini stand

anyway so im clearing the desk and have been trying to get my motivation back after getting chased and traumatized by the landlord steve.
its pretty shit. i freakin hate the guy. ok anyway im trying to not be traumatized but that doesnt diminish the severity of his assault toward me in my own "home"
--

ok its 4:24
finally have distilled water
all the soaps are probably rotting now from contamination and tap water

specially the cannabis soap i gave away at the free event
...
i think the lotion failed
i will update again

--

its kind of waxy
so i guess i should go to shoppers and get some glyserine

wow heating and holding was intense and difficult over the stove

im tired

and my lotion might be partially candle wax.

so i dont know if the lotion is good? im not sure what the one wax really is? i bought it from the woman up by finch. so far.
it seems fine on my dry leg
but it looks waxy/shiny on my hands/ palms/ fingertips

it doesnt really do the waxy effect

its got
shea butter
pumpkin seed oil
hemp seed oil
mct oil
aloe vera
water
cetearyl alcohol and polysorbate 60 or emulsifying wax nf
the weird unknown wax might be cetyl and stearyl alcohols ?
trace essential oils
iodine (99% Diazolidinyl Urea (DU) and 1% Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate -germall plus)

so im going to try again tomorrow i guess it needs to be bottled up should have done it sooner.

woah its really great on my leg. if i add green coffee oil is it a cellulite lotion?

 

;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;

so im pretty excited about it

i wanted to make a skin brightening lotion but ill try the other emulsifying wax and a stronger concentration of the aloe vera powder first. maybe different oils too. i wanted a sunflower one so my skin barrier function improves. ive been getting ash dry skin when i forget to put lotion on :(

just a plain lotion with a runnier texture? lotionpro 165 tomorrow plus water phase thickener (i have rice bran, arrowroot powder, and guar gum) (i have no idea what im doing)

and these need to sit around for ages before i give one to someone, what if it separates?

if i give it to a friend, my friend will tell me, but what if i give it to a stranger and they don't tell me but tell everyone else how awful my lotion was?

Lotion Making

so ive tried to make lotion a couple times, both times failed due to lack of ingredients. well, more like lack of understanding the process.
since the experiment failed i decided to just mix my essential oil blend into some other lotion. so i heated coconut oil and melted some cetyl alcohol, cooled it down and added PEG 400 and my essential oil blend and flower wax, melted that down and then added a lanolin base lotion and mixed it as well as possible (but i think it still needs blending). the smell is intoxicating the longer it unfurls. jasmine, sandalwood, copaiba balsam, and this unknown wax material labeled nag champa which i am assuming is champa floral wax. divine.
meanwhile, ive been studying different cold pressed carrier oils and also been compiling anecdotal information regarding using cannabis as a topical. basically all those unsold vape pens with shatter in glycerine or PEG can be turned into a topical. its all very interesting and curious. guess you could say im rather passionate about learning how to make my own lotion. it would be amazing if i could land myself a marijuana cannabis boyfriend this summer. make some stuff and have a nice time.
to seriously start experimenting with different chemical processes and emulsions means to spend money investing in materials. yikes.
i will be starting with the basic emulsifiers and thickeners, stearic acid and cetyl alcohol. these two ingredients are completely safe and natural, cetyl alcohol is a long chain fatty alcohol, mine is derived from palm, and stearic acid, which is a saturated fatty acid what makes up most of the common hard butters like cocoa and shea (its what makes it hard) (its etymology is the greek word for tallow)
 im also going to be playing with rose ether as a fixative and preservative (phenoxyethanol - found in green tea) and sodium sorbate (food preservative)
for my product to be as natural as can be i am looking for safe preservatives that also offer emollient or lend other properties to my final product. i would also like to use antioxidants to extend the shelf life of these cold pressed carrier oils i am looking into. even though mineral oil is very useful ill try plant oils and their power first.
it took me a long while to figure out emulsions but i have had help online.
swiftcraftymonkey
wellnessmama
ewg.org
all the excellent suppliers websites and the information posted
wikipedia
ncbi.nlm.nih.gov
soapqueen
cosmetic science talk
the naked chemist
humblebeeandme
makingskincare.com
soapdisharchives
ingredientstodiefor
frugallysustainable
and the list goes on..

without these ladies and gents experimenting and posting their results and knowledge i would be lost.

also really glad i took the sogomi workshop in manila on cosmetic preparations and soap making.
remembering how they built a large mixer by welding a mixer head on a heavy duty drill bit to mix a huge batch of kojic soap was very enlightening.