Coumarin Natural Crystals Usage Rates

since this material has restrictions on usage i made sure to look it up.
turns out ill be fine. the lowest amount possible for use in the most sensitive areas
like in baby wipes is .30%,
for soaps its 2% and I'll be using much less than that.
Since some people (ehem) might use the soap to shave. 
 heres a list of the categories: https://plushfolly.com/Information/Page-/-Category
and this is the chart from the coumarin usage

	Limits in the finished product:
	Category 1 See Note box (1)			0.1 %			Category 7			0.3 %
	Category 2			0.13 %			Category 8			2.0 %
	Category 3			0.5 %			Category 9			5.0 %
	Category 4			1.6 %			Category 10			2.5 %
	Category 5			0.8 %			Category 11			See Note Box (2)
	Category 6			2.5 %

New Cannabis Soap

Made a soap on Friday and cut it on Sunday
its a bit too fatty......

i got to soap outside

 didnt really prepare the area very well (thats my lye water in the peanut glass)

 heres the blend

 and they looked super great .....

 super squishy looking and thick

 nice batter

 then they gelled and the tops were ruined

 squish

 heres me minding the day, i made a mango salad and watched them not gel

 the mango salad was delicious

 then i insulated them and they gelled.
and had some problems because i left them covered in plastic the whole next day (dumb) and the big one had condensation and started brown spots and i was horrified
so i made a cutter and sliced the top off

this was the cutter i made. it sucked.

 heres the slice. see the spots?

 then underneath you can see how fatty the soap is

 this is the uneven sliced off top

 heres the soap

 you can see the gel phase

 these were the small container

 different colour from the large container

and here is the soap mold i was starting to make with the landlord bill.
he cut these for me and lent me stain and varnish

Adding Stearic Acid to Sunflower soap

so this is the soap from earlier, its not the same recipe as the potentially dreaded orange spots soap thats actually got dreaded lye pockets. its got .7% stearic acid because i read it in this forum post
https://www.soapmakingforum.com/threads/stearic-acid.43182/

but i formulated a different recipe using the soap calc using up to 10% stearic acid and got this

Hardness	29 - 54	27
Cleansing	12 - 22	5
Conditioning	44 - 69	71
Bubbly	14 - 46	11
Creamy	16 - 48	27
Iodine	41 - 70	104
INS	136 - 165	96

might try that recipe tomorrow for the next soap trial.

hey ive given away almost all the soaps ive made :(
have a piece of each one since the start though.

because i havent bought a tub for disinfecting, and all the specific things for soaping only, and im in a kitchen that i cleaned so i know what it looked like before, im just kind of turned off, its not clean enough, or new enough, this house is pretty old and hadnt been cleaned since i moved in.

anyway here is the pic of the .7% stearic acid sunflower soap.

it firmed up right away, used the submersion mixer.

this is what the soap calc gave me for this soap:

Soap Bar Quality	Range	Your Recipe
Hardness	29 - 54	12
Cleansing	12 - 22	0
Conditioning	44 - 69	86
Bubbly	14 - 46	0
Creamy	16 - 48	12
Iodine	41 - 70	132
INS	136 - 165	64

the recipe is
64.55 grams sunflower oil
.45 grams stearic acid
8.79 grams lye
21.97 grams water

its not adding the stearic acid into trace, its saponifying using the sap value. this is how i formulated the recipe for tomorrow, by saponifying the stearic acid with the soft oils.

have a go at this recipe, tweak it however you like! its a conditioning bar according to the soapcalc, but if you replace about 10 grams of coconut oil it will be more cleansing. its also got a lot of time to add essential oil, so you can reduce the oil by .5 grams and add that at trace, maybe a nice creamy scent like benzoin in .5 carrier at trace,  one drop is probably all you need!
--
midnight,
it popped right out of the mold!
i love using the mixer.  such a bright white colour too. will i ever learn how to gel? the first soaps gelled... what happened



--
i cut it today (the next day)
it is hard! doesnt press into with firm pressure
it was slow to bubble (3-5 seconds) and the bubbles are creamy and smallish, not big bubbles like coconut oil
the one drop of benzoin didnt scent it at all (booooo) maybe after it sits for a while the scent will come through because i added cedar and .... i forgot, its in my notes

so great!!!

 hey
it doesnt smell like anything because i didnt scent this soap LOL

;-)

--,--'--,--8--<@

ok so the soap is totally fine cleansing wise. i have been over washing my hands. woops. so now after using the sample in hot water and really rubbing my fingers into it, it has done sometime
pa dah!
totally unexpected and cool!
i think its the glycerine and its forming peaks, and the soap melts but dosent dissolve and is this clear gel for a bit and its, i dont know what it is! it washes off and its just what the stearic acid does, i guess. if *you* know whats going on here post a comment!

so i wanted to add castor oil because i read somewhere (i lost the link :( that it increases the solubility of the soap but i need to look that up again

its so trippy!
also the bar is very hard!
and it did this great thing where it wiped the grease off my finger (bike grease, from my bicycle) only thing is, its a bit drying right at my fingertips because i was using it for too long and really using my fingertips to mush into it, but it didnt mush and stayed its shape (compared to the milk and honey soap- that one needs to cure forever its so soft)
but my grubby hands are totally clean now even under my fingernails.
pretty sweet.

did i make a candle?

Milk and Honey Soap

i just made a soap using my new mixer, used 1% beeswax so i mixed the lye and oils at around 140 degrees f
it traced Quick
but it looked like some oil was separating already?
then i added the essential oils in carrier at around 120 degrees
and it wouldnt blend in?
so because i added less lye, i added extra lye
and it seperated even more?
so i have made a dreaded orange spots soap?
im not sure :(
im miserable about it
it was so thick
and the oil seeps through the top, i sopped it up with tissues
but you can see here, then it wouldnt fill the mold fully
there are spaces
because the batter was too thick

im so sad it didnt work
this recipe has
sunflower
coconut
castor
the given to me shea butter
and beeswax

if it forms i will just use it myself or give some away to be used asap....

---
so i htink it was because i decreased the total water weight by decreasing the lye, then i added oil
so i think it was not enough water

i dont know.
its all wrapped up now in a wool blanket because the point of this soap was to do another sunflower soap with gel phase ? less lye to reduce soda ash, and to figure out the super fat through the reduction of lye

but i got lost damn .

so i just checked the soap and its super hot and firmed up and i dont see the dots of oil?

did i ruin it?

actually the best textured soap from the initial trials was the one with the soothing salve and i used half the sample for the 100 gram trial i did but didnt figure out the math
the worry with that one was that
(omg)
the top part separated and turned to oil and i thought it wouldnt form
but it did form eventually hardened and has a nice texture when using

thats why i added beeswax
plus soaping resource dot com recommends up to 2%
so i did 1% and 25 grams of the west african shea butter

omg
i should have just left the oil right
omg

ugh i ruined it twice
this soaping really is a trial in patience

i probably should have just stuck to the original recipe i wrote down, took me all day and night then i didnt even use it
ugh

this soap better be good.

---
the soap is really hot! its 10:30 pm now.
i wanted to go to the beach party, but i went to the park and regretted it instead.
the worst part about this soap seems to be the texture.
guess i should have bought a better mixer because there are only two speeds and you have to keep it pressed. it was $21. my cheap shoes cost more money, weird huh.
--

i looked up hot process soap and its kind of what my soap looked like earlier
https://www.soapqueen.com/bath-and-body-tutorials/cold-process-soap/marbled-clay-hot-process-soap/
i dont have any affiliation with brambleberry btw. ive never even bought anything from them.

this is the second sunflower soap, the first one was the cannabis soap and the only thing wrong with that soap was the soda ash, and the bubbles. it was cold process. and i followed the recipe i wrote out. ugh.
---
ok its the 3rd 9 in the evening and earlier i was tilting the soap checking it out and some water fell out, lye water. yikes :(
put the recipe through the soapcalc (because i havent been using it, ive just been manually calculating each ingredient) so i ran it through with the additions i made, and this is what i got

Soap Bar Quality	Range	Your Recipe
Hardness	29 - 54	34
Cleansing	12 - 22	22
Conditioning	44 - 69	62
Bubbly	14 - 46	23
Creamy	16 - 48	12
Iodine	41 - 70	91
INS	136 - 165	127

dlooks ok right? but the lye pockets :/
havent unmolded it, its not very firm yet. it does look a bit translucent.

made another soap and will post it as a separate post.

--
ok its wednesday and i cut the soap. its got lye pockets. i think i had a mixing issue.
so im going to make this soap into laundry soap or something useful. do i need to rinse out the lye and let it re-dry
i have no idea

its all mottled
looks like some gel phase some not

im kind of sad because its so big but you know last night i forgot the rice i cooked so the bottom scorched and i added some of the soap flakes i cut off previous soaps and i let it soap the bottom of the pan and this morning all the burned rice bits came right off with my finger and water, i didnt even need to use the scrubber at all. im in love with soap making and cant wait to learn lotions when i get my supplies.

see the lye water puddle forming on the bottom... seeping out of the lye pockets.. yikes

-

so it cant even be used for laundry soap because i put beeswax. 
so hows a grody wood cleaner ala murphys oil soap but its just grated soap.
at one point i accidentally dripped lye on the table and it ate away at the varnish and darkened it
and it wiped off
leaving bare wood
i need goggles, long arm sleeves, a mask, ive eaten lye twice now, maybe three times and its awful.
its gotten on my skin and i feel it right away. gee.
this reminds me of the gold plating machine and the cyanide gold solution.

---

ok i tried the soap. even tried it in the shower. its great. i love the texture of the soap film, its got this unique texture i think its the beeswax. and the benzoin in this...it smells like milk and honey. im going to rename the title of the post to milk and honey soap.

im just worried about the excess lye pockets? what if theres one trapped in a bubble kind of thing.
maybe i could grate the soap and add it to another soap. cos its really got a nice texture and mild sweet and creamy scent.

.:
hey i just found out alkaline products are great for psoriasis and eczema. i googled: is psoriasis acidic on your skin
turns out it is, and alkaline products that probably rebalance your skin ph will allow the skin to heal itself.

so i want to give all my milk and honey soap to my friend with sometimes psoriasis and loves taking long baths!

---
THIS SOAP TESTED PH 8 on July 10!

Cold Process soap making

Here are the cold process soaps i made

turns out i accidentally supperfatted my recipes, to about 1-2% wondering why there was an oil part after most of the soap seemed to have already set, then much later this oil part also set. could it be the superfat excess oil that didnt saponify due to lack of lye or is that just how it goes.  
The lye concentration recommended by the chemist in manila is at 28% and he said that was the minimum so as not to make a harsh soap but ive seen recipes with a 29.something % lye concentration.

Made three different kinds so far. Well four. One is a layered clay soap, one is a plain coconut oil soap with less than a gram of an aromatherapy oil blend, the last is a coconut oil soap and added about a gram of a soothing salve from the expo job.  this one had much more of that excess oil that took longer to firm up after the initial trace. each soap is 100 grams, so the clay soap is 200 grams. its a bit thick. was thinking of slicing it at the layer.

there is some oil left over and will make a couple to a few more bars.... what else can i add? i dont want to waste my essential oils, and i just realized the old fragrance oils i have might not even be for body care (woops)

next to make is a light pink soap with rose and violet leaf. will use way less of the clay so it wont look like a brick. ...
found a soap calculator http://soapcalc.net/calc/soapcalcwp.asp 
and superfatted the pink clay rose soap by 15% and for some reason also added 3 grams of stearic acid. mixed it more because the clay was added with the rose oil and added at trace, then realized i had used the wrong formula and needed to add 12 grams more of lye solution, mixed it again, and did not do that weird oil separating thing. wow. turns out the first bars were not mixed enough.
ok....

 took out the clay soap from the mold, probably two days too early
 it looks super cool. i love how much it looks like a cement block and i love that you can see the folds of the milk box. cant wait to get great at this and also make my own molds.

meanwhile havent done anything about my destash or listing old jewelry stuff up online :/
all i want to do is make soap now. i even forgot about my lotion making. was supposed to get some xanthan and guar gum but i fear the emulsifying wax is wrong. have to try it out anyway. dont really trust the wax or the lady. she didnt really label the products properly and she told me KOH is an additive that makes skin better. so im hesitating. im going to go with what i believe from what she said. i asked her if it was emulsifying wax nf and she said it was emulsifying wax EO, which doesnt exist, so it might be emulsifying wax o (from new directions, because thats where some of her carrier oils were from)
the smell of the clay soap is wafting towards me... a nice fresh, warm hay scent.
hopefully they'll turn out, specially now that ive realized they were not blended properly.
wont even know until a month from now (at least) because they need to cure. damn! im so ready to use them.
next batch will be one large batch and ill use the mixer.

so the next batch to make will be honey and milk soap. found out you add the powdered milk to the oil before adding the lye. and honey after trace and mix very well. someone online mentioned adding the honey to the lye, and tried that and it changed colour to a bright pink.
in manila, we learned to add all the water ingredients to the lye water, so adding the honey to the lye made sense but the colour... couldn't figure out where the milk powder went so after the lye turned pink with honey i added the milk powder to it and it looked like vomit. that's when i threw it out and made new lye water....

this is so exciting! i love milk and honey smelling soaps and lotions.
i love learning how to make new things!

---
here is the picture of the unboxed pink and white layer.
the white layer wasnt mixed properly. so it was soft and stuck to the container a bit.
the pink clay layer is great, mixed properly, but i didnt want to use essential oils anymore so i used artificial...and its the best bar. ugh.
didnt buy oil again yet.
really love these naturally coloured clay soaps. not sure if i want to slice the green and grey one. im just going to leave these as is because they are my first ones. the yellow one in the round container is also not mixed properly so its still soft too.

here is the soft white one. it got hard! i like it because its so banged up. poor little bar. it just wasnt ready yet.

---
im making soap right now and it 4:30 in the morning. woops. woke up from a nap. bought sunflower oil earlier and now im wondering about adding honey to milk and honey bar
this tutorial helped me realize the first soaps never went through this gel phase, they were just not mixed properly.
https://www.soapqueen.com/bath-and-body-tutorials/tips-and-tricks/adding-honey-to-cold-process-soap-tips-tricks-recipe/
i never make the soaps hot. it seems too tedious to wait for the temperatures to catch up with each other or have to heat one or wait for one to cool down.
like this http://www.soap-making-essentials.com/what-temperature-should-lye-water-be.html the comments are quite useful.
another thing i realized is that some oils are cheaper at the grocery, plus no shipping. now im wondering about the lye water available in chinese groceries, but still havent learned the percentage of lye in that water. because otherwise theres a hefty hazmat charge for shipping lye and im almost out of my little 300g container. (oh the hardware stores got lye, duh)

added honey to the soap and the little globules are not dispersing with no hand mixer. i hope this soap turns out.
10 mins later
well it wont because the honey keeps sinking to the bottom so i poured it off and will again before it goes into the mold. besides i measured the oil wrong so the container im going to use is slightly too small. turns out thats perfect because i dont want to add honey to soap anymore until i know how or why im doing it. the honey smell comes from the beeswax but its not very strong at all. i used about 1.5%
so far the soap smells really nice, mildly honey and slightly creamy.
i hope those damn globules of honey dont pour in when i mold it. theyre gonna sink to the bottom and its gonna be weird. oh yeah. itll get weird. reading these comments https://www.soapqueen.com/bath-and-body-tutorials/tips-and-tricks/adding-honey-to-cold-process-soap-tips-tricks-recipe/
guess my main take away here is dont add liquid honey to your soap. just make tea and drink it instead.
15 mins later
um, wow. maybe im an idiot savant or something but i just finished pouring out the soap, poured it twice to remove the sunken honey, and it fits *perfectly* into the container now.
so im really excited for this soap and i hope it firms up. i wont try to remove it prematurely like all the rest. im so excited to slice it!!!
here is the picture of my little loaf
its a plastic desk organizer.
and of course the oil is Unico because i am indeed, nico.

oh pic later the ones i just took are all blue and bad.

hey the soap is still at light trace.
its been at least 10 hours.

found this http://www.soap-making-essentials.com/sunflower-oil.html which says sunflower oil takes forever to saponify and is a soft bar, glad i added beeswax... but its still liquidy :(

i think i like coconut for soap the best. even though ive only tried two different oils ><
got to get a blender to reach trace quicker. my vintage mixer is splattery.

its been over a day and now the oil seems to have separated on top. not sure if it should be remixed. its pudding like

well here it is, june 25, the soap is done. so done i am throwing it away!!!!

 there are little dots of orange oil seeping out

 i think its the powdered milk particles

 it was crumbly and smelled weird... gross.

when i made the melt and pour with powdered milk, i mixed the powder with 98% alcohol, and nothing happened to the milky melt and pour soaps, one is sitting in a wet dish by the sink ever since i made them, they have stearic acid to stay hard and the milky melt and pours dont have any problems..... but this milk and honey bar is broken. so its going to be thrown away.
doesnt it look like a bad brie?